SHOJI AT 69 LEONARD STREET

Those interested in dining at SoHo’s intimate sushi and kaiseki counter Shoji at 69 Leonard Street may have a hard time finding details on the space. Its website, nondescript and minimalist, provides no menus, no photos—just a link to reservations and its hours. And the restaurant itself is no easier to uncover, with the word “shōji” translating to the traditional Japanese screen covered in opaque paper over a wooden frame.

If you’re the kind of diner who likes to let the chef take matters into their own hands, you’ll enjoy the 16- to 18-course kappo-style tasting menu prepared by Chef Derek Wilcox in this 10-seat Tribeca counter. Paired alongside natural wines by wine director Jorge Riera (also well known for his work with Wildair), the entire experience is light and refreshing, yet rich in flavor.