Semma—meaning “fantastic” in Tamil—is an exploration of Southern Indian cuisine that has rarely been seen outside of local homes and neighborhoods. Chef Vijay, a native of Tamil Nadu, has teamed up with acclaimed restaurateurs Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya to bring the deeply personal and authentic moments of farm life on ancestral land to the plate with explosive flavors and regional ingredients. Every dish has a certain stylishness, with platings often arranged in playful geometric shapes. The gunpowder dosa is a must, as is the valiya chemmeen moilee (lobster tail, mustard, turmeric, coconut milk). The cocktail list packs a punch and the wine is delightfully curated to pair. The restaurant itself is spacious and thoughtfully decorated: basket lamps float above a white marble bar, opposite a line of tables with a patterned banquette of orange and white stripes.