La Mercerie feels like a slice of Paris in SoHo. Blue banquettes line the bright space, overlooking a big marble-clad kitchen. Each plate, napkin, coffee cup, and lamp is a temptation—they’re all available in the adjacent store. Chef Marie-Aude Rose discovered a love of cooking early in life, with her grandparents in Paris and the French countryside. Her love of everyday French cooking is apparent at this contemporary French eatery, where divine incarnations of classics fill the menu. From flaky croissants and delicate omelets to classic French dishes such as the tuna niçois, and beef bourguignon, the menu here is a reminder that some of life’s most pleasurable moments aren’t very complicated.